Suffolk County Landscaping & Lawn Maintenance
B & B Maintenance Services, Inc.

A Suffolk County Landscaping & Lawn Care Maintenance Company. Office: (631) 567-0631 Cell: (631) 335-4056

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Below is a list of helpful tips to improve your landscape setting, along with new legislation and news reguarding the 'Green Industry'.

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Grass selection criteria

Posted by B & B Maintenance on May 21, 2009 at 10:23 PM

Select your grass based on (1) how much maintenance time (and money)you will have to devote to the lawn, (2) what the lawn will be used forand (3) the climate and growing conditions prevalent in your area.Proper selection of species and variety based on these three factorswill always deliver expected results.

Irrigate Properly

Posted by B & B Maintenance on May 21, 2009 at 10:21 PM

When you water your lawn, water it only in the morning. The best timeto water is between 6:00 and 9:00 am. Winds are usually low,temperatures are usually cool and the sun has not risen high enough tospeed evaporation. Thus, the water percolates into the soil rather thanevaporating (afternoon watering) or lying on the grass´ surface(evening watering). Evening watering on a regular basis is asking fortrouble. Fungi thrive on cool temps and moisture.

HIRE A LANDSCAPING PROFESSIONAL

Posted by B & B Maintenance on May 9, 2009 at 11:35 PM

"HIRE THE PROFESSIONAL"


A notice from the Nassau Suffolk Landscape Gardeners Association


TIPS ON SELECTING A LANDSCAPE PROFESIONAL


Looking for a brand new landscape, a few dramatic additions, top-notch maintenance for your grounds? Start by selecting a Professional Landscape Contractor. Landscape adds value to your home, business, and your neighborhood. The right landscaping can increase the value of your home by 15%, allowing owners to recoup 100% to 200% of their investment. A Landscape Professional can offer you a variety of services, including design, installation, and maintenance of your property, based on your specific needs and requirements. Enlisting the services of a Professional Landscape Maintenance company means protecting your investment, more importantly, just being able to sit back and enjoy your grounds. Consider the following when hiring a qualified Landscape Professional:

  •  When hiring a landscape professional, remember to look for quality, expertise, and service, not just the bottom line price.

  • Ask if the company is fully licensed to operate a business. Licenses required: FEDERAL: Employer I.D. number.
    STATE: Registered Business Sales Tax number.
    COUNTY: Consumer Affairs License.
    TOWN: Some local town & villages require special permits.
    PESTICIDE: A New York State certified applicators license and a New York State pesticide business license is required to apply pesticides professionally. This means anything other than fertilizer, lime and grass seed.

    IF THE COMPANY IS NOT LICENSED IN ALL THE AFOREMENTIONED AND WORKS FOR YOU, YOU COULD BE HELD LIABLE.

  • Ask how the firm stays on top of industry changes. Ask about membership in state and local associations, (Nassau Suffolk Landscape Gardeners Association, Arborist Association, Cornell Cooperative Extension, etc?). Association membership means the company is taking steps to stay current and informed. Membership identification must be posted on all vehicles. Vehicles must be properly labeled for pesticide use, [colored triangles].

  • Make sure the company is capable of doing the job you want done, has the right equipment etc? Make sure you and the Landscape Professional understand exactly what is to be done, price and time-table, both of work and payment. Do not leave room for misunderstanding, be specific, do not assume anything.

  •  Ask if the company is involved with environmentally sound dumping, i.e. A Compost facility, or will they leave bags of yard waste on your property to be routed to a landfill.

  •  When the companies? employees are on your grounds, note if they are presentable, uniformed, and operating all machinery in a safe manor, (O.S.H.O.).

  •  Ask for references. Make sure the firm is trustworthy and will follow through with the work to be done. Hopefully, when you hire a Landscape Professional, especially for maintenance, it is for a long-term relationship.


CONSIDER THESE STEPS WHEN HIRING YOUR NEW LANDSCAPE PROFESSIONAL

Posted by B & B Maintenance on April 21, 2009 at 10:35 PM

B & B Maintenance Services, Inc.

Suffolk County, Long Island, New York
Landscaping Contractor & Designer
Suffolk County, Long Island's Landscaping Specialist


We are a professional landscaping maintenance company located in Suffolk County, Long Island, New York
B & B Maintenance Services, Inc. has been providing professional landscaping services for Long Island homeowners and business owners for over 5 years.
We are Suffolk County's landscaping maintenance / lawn care experts.
We can design and install a professional landscape for you home and providde you with that new seed or sod lawn.
We offer fertilization programs at competitive prices to green up and make your lawn strong and healthy.
B & B Maintenance is proud to be part of the Nassau Suffolk Landscape Gardners Association.
We are Licensed & Insured for you protection and to ensure you satisfaction.
At B & B Maintenance Services, Inc. we use the highest quality materials from our commercial supplier: Bissett Nursery Corporation.



B & B Maintenance is located in Suffolk County, Long Island, Oakdale, New York (NY)


We serve the following counties: Suffolk County

We serve the following towns: Town of Islip, Town of Smithtown, Town of Babylon, Town of Lindenhurst, Town of Huntington, Town of Brookhaven

We serve the following cities: 11701 Amityville 11702 Babylon 11703 North Babylon 11704 11707 West Babylon 11705 Bayport 11706 Bay Shore 11708 Amityville 11715 Blue Point 11716 Bohemia 11717 Brentwood 11718 Brightwaters 11720 Centereach 11722 Central Islip 11726 Copiague 11729 Deer Park 11730 East Islip 11739 Great River 11740 Greenlawn 11741 Holbrook 11742 Holtsville 11743 Huntington 11745 11787 Smithtown 11747 Melville 11749 11760 Islandia 11751 Islip 11752 Islip Terrace 11755 Lake Grove 11757 Lindenhurst 11763 Medford 11767 Nesconset 11769 Oakdale 11772 Patchogue 11775 Melville 11779 Ronkonkoma 11780 Saint James 11782 Sayville 11784 Selden 11788 Hauppauge 11795 West Islip 11796 West Sayville 11798 Wyandanch 11950 Mastic 11967 Shirley

We offer the following services: Suffolk County Lawn Care, Landscaping Lawn Service, Weekly Landscaping , Biweekly Landscaping, Lawn Maintenance, Suffolk County Lawn Care, Long Island Lawn Care, Grounds Maintenance, Lawncare, Lawn Mowing, Lawn Mowing Service, Grass Cutting, Lawn Care Services, Lawn Services, Lawn Care Business, Green Lawn Care, Landscaping, Landscaping Contractors, Landscape Contractor, Landscaping Company, Landscape Design, Garden Landscaping, Landscape Gardeners, Landscaper, Landscapers, Gardeners, Lawn Landscaping, Landscaping Ideas, Real Estate, Flower Planting, Estate Mulch Installation, Mulch Beds, Spring Clean Up, Fall Clean Up, Leaf Clean Up, Landscaping Cleanup, Leaf Removal, Leaf Service, Tree Pruning, Hedge, Tree Service, Tree Removal, Stump Grinding, Trimming, Fertilization, Organic Fertilization, Fertilizer, Overseeding, Core Aeration, De-Thatching, Thatching, Dethatching, Sod Installation, New Lawns, Seeding, Seed, Grass, Sod, Lawn Irrigation, Lawn Sprinklers, Sprinkler Installation, Gutter Cleaning, Power Washing, Pressure Washing, Rubbish Removal, Junk Removal, Garbage Removal, Snow Removal, Snow Service



We thank you for taking the time out of your busy schedule to visit our website and invite you to see all thelandscaping services we have to offer.

You can click the 'Photo Gallery' option from the navigation menu at the left to view photos of some of out work for customers here in Suffolk County, Long Island, New York.

Spring

Posted by B & B Maintenance on April 20, 2009 at 4:35 PM

Spring is an ideal time for planting in almost all areas of the country, as warming temperatures and regular rainfall makes conditions ideal for plant establishment. Make sure you wait until the threat of frost is over before planting. Spring is a good time to make sure your irrigation or sprinkler system is in good working condition, and that your lawn tools and equipment are ready for the upcoming busy season. And remember, any season is the right time to make sure your shrubs and trees are properly mulched in order to moderate temperatures, maintain soil moisture, deter weeds, and enhance the attractiveness of your yard. However, avoid mulching directly around the trunks of trees and ornamental plants, as this can lead to rot.

Yardcare Tips for the Northeastern Region

Posted by B & B Maintenance on April 17, 2009 at 11:20 PM

If you want to have a terrific lawn:

  1. Fix the soil and maintain it every year without fail
    To grow great grass you need good dirt – healthy humus rich soil filled with earthworms and beneficial microbes. To create good soil, I recommend an annual application of organic material such as autumn leaves or Canadian sphagnum peat moss to your lawn. Use your mulching mower to mulch an inch or so of finely chopped leaves into the grass each fall or spread a 1/8th inch of Canadian sphagnum peat moss on the lawn in the spring and/or the fall. You get a 1/8th inch layer by spreading the peat moss with a grass rake and raking it in so thoroughly it’s no longer visible among the blades of grass.

  2. Overseed the lawn every 3 to 4-years even if it looks great
    A lawn that is as dense as brand new sod, year after year, will have few weeds. To get the lawn thick, overseed the lawn in the fall or spring once or twice the first year. Once the second year, and then make it a routine to reseed every 3 or 4 years even if the lawn is looking really good.

  3. Use a mulching lawnmower
    A good mulching lawn mower chops up the grass so fine there are never any clumps left on top of the turf. Recycling clippings back into the lawn for an entire season provides the grass plants as much nitrogen as there is in a application of fertilizer. However, the most important reason, by far for using a mulching mower is to be able to chop leaves finely enough in the fall to leave an inch of chopped leaves on the lawn over the winter to feed those earthworms and beneficial soil microbes that reduce compaction, provide nutrients, and improve drainage.

  4. Mow the lawn properly
    For the best appearance and good health of lawn grass, mow high using a sharp blade. A dull blade will tear rather than cut the lawn leaving a ragged end on the grass blades that cast a dull haze over the lawn. That ragged edge also leaves the grass more vulnerable to disease. Depending on the size of the lawn, a mower blade becomes dull after one or two seasons and should be sharpened or replaced every year or two. Grass that is dense and cut over 2-inches tall has few weeds and serves as habitat for ants, spiders, and ground beetles which keep the pest insects of a lawn in check. Tall grass shades the soil reducing evaporation of moisture and will not burn out in the heat of summer. Set the mower for 2 to 2-1/2 inches in the spring and fall and raise it to 3 inches in summer.

  5. Use only slow release granular fertilizer
    Quick release nitrogen fertilizers need to be applied three or four times a year in order to be effective. High in salts, the increased salinity burns turf roots and repels the valuable earthworms and kill many of the beneficial soil microbes. Slow release nitrogen fertilizer needs to be applied only once or twice a year and will not hurt the soil critters. Use slow release nitrogen fertilizer in the spring and again in the fall for a few years, but if you are taking care of your soil, you can drop back to a single application in the fall, or split the application putting down half the recommended amount in spring and half in fall.

  6. Avoid watering too much or too little
    The key questions in watering the lawn are: “When does the grass need to be watered?” and “How much do I need to water?”. When you walk over a lawn that is mowed tall, you will leave temporary footprints. If the footprints disappear with the grass popping back upright within a minute or two the grass has enough water. If the foot prints last more than 3 or 4 minutes, the lawn needs to be watered. In spring and fall between your hose and Mother Nature, give the lawn an inch of water each week. Lawns need two inches a week in the heat of the summer. An empty tuna fish can is one inch deep so put a few empty tuna cans out in the pattern of your sprinkler and track the time to see how long it takes to fill the cans and you can quickly figure how to deliver an accurate amount of water to the lawn. A rain gauge will help you keep track of Mother Nature’s contribution.

  7. Avoid using any broad spectrum insecticides
    A lawn that is dense and mowed tall is likely to be inhabited by a healthy population of beneficial insects, including ants, spiders, and ground beetles, seldom has any problems from fleas, grubs, sod webworms, chinch bugs or any other lawn grass insect pest. If you routinely use a broad spectrum insecticide each year, you will kill all the good guys along with the bad guys. If the grass is mowed tall and kept dense from overseeding, those beneficial insects will eliminate the need for the annual use of the insecticide.

  8. Spread lime only if needed in late fall, not in the spring
    Use lime on the lawn only if you are sure that your soil is acidic enough to justify it. A soil test is the only accurate way to tell. Contact your County Extension Service to get a soil test kit and related information. If you do apply lime, use a granular lime product in October or even in November. It takes six months for granular lime to break down sufficiently to be helpful to the grass plants.

  9. Buy only the highest quality grass seed
    Only the top quality grass seed includes varieties that have been bred with good disease resistance, look good, and are drought resistant. When you buy the high-end brands, you can trust the grass seed companies to give you the right mixture for the northeast. Buy full sun mix if your lawn gets over 6 hours of sun a day. Use a shade mixture if your lawn gets 3 to 6 hours of sun a day. Any lawn getting less than 3 hours of sun a day must be overseeded every spring to look even average for the season.

  10. Get rid of grubs and moles by growing good soil
    Grubs and moles are only a problem in lawns that are compacted and have turf with roots only two inches deep. If you add organic matter to the soil under your turf on a yearly basis, the earthworms and soil microbes lower the level of compaction over time, so after 3 to 5 years, the grubs and moles are working down at the 4 to 6 inch depth and are not evident in your lawn.

Mowing - effects of mowing

Posted by B & B Maintenance on April 14, 2009 at 5:47 PM

The shorter you mow, the less the roots will grow.
Only about 5% of turf grass nutrition is derived from the soil; the other 95% is taken in through the blades as carbon, hydrogen, oxygen. Grass blades exist to convert energy from sunlight into sugars, starches and plant fibers that the grass plant then uses for growth. The food manufactured in the blades of the grass is used for both the top growth and the root growth. When you mow you reduce the ability of the grass plant to manufacture food, and thereby to form strong roots.

Grass Clippings

Posted by B & B Maintenance on April 14, 2009 at 5:47 PM

Within 12-24 hours after mowing, grass clippings will have lost nearly 80% of their weight and almost as much of their physical size. The water contained in the grass clippings quickly evaporates, which allows the clippings to drop to the soil level, where the microbial action of breaking them down begins.

ABCs of Lawn and Turf Benefits

Posted by B & B Maintenance on April 9, 2009 at 11:02 PM

ABCs of Lawn and Turf Benefits
Healthy turf means healthy lives


Frequently, those little green factories at our feet are taken for granted. It’s easy to overlook the many reasons why a healthy lawn or a dense athletic turf is an essential part of our lives. This primer from the Professional Landcare Network (PLANET) explains why the benefits of turf are as simple as A, B, C.



Aesthetically pleasing — The value of turfed areas have been recognized for their beauty since China’s emperors maintained mowed-grass areas (157-87 BC). Today, lawns are an integral part of home landscaping and public parks.


Business improvement — Businesses and manufacturing complexes that have well-maintained grassy areas create a favorable impression to the general public, employees, and customers. Lawns increase the value of the property by up to15 percent.


Climate control — Turfgrasses appreciably cool temperatures, thus working as exterior “air conditioners.”


Dust filter — Dust and smoke particles from the atmosphere are trapped by turf, keeping our air cleaner and fresher.


Erosion control — Grasses greatly control erosion by intercepting both raindrops before they disturb the soil and slow-flowing water so that larger soil particles are captured from the collected water.


Fire retardation — Buffer areas of well-maintained grassy lawns around buildings are good insurance against fire.


Golf courses — Millions of people play golf for exercise, relaxation, and business transactions. In the U.S., more than 14 million golfers enjoy the highly groomed grass found on golf courses.


Health promoter — Turfgrasses cushion, clean air, generate oxygen, and create serene, beautiful landscapes.


Injury reducer — A soft, resilient turfgrass surface buffers and absorbs some of the impact from injuries due to sports and games.


Junk prevention — Garbage is less likely to be thrown on an area where there is a well-maintained lawn.


Knowledge base — The care of turfgrasses and other plants is considered so therapeutic it is used in a variety of rehabilitation programs, including those for the ill, elderly, handicapped, and the incarcerated.


Landscape of America — Lawns are estimated to occupy an area of between 25 million to 30 million acres in the U.S. (equivalent to the size of the five New England states) and is increasing along with the population.


Market value — Monetary value is associated with a well-manicured lawn. As a result sales prices of homes may increase up to 20 percent.


Noise reducer — Grassy areas reduce excessive sound, something especially appreciated in urban areas. Grassy slopes beside lowered expressways decrease noise 8–10 decibels.


Oxygen factory — The oxygen generated by turf grasses has a major impact on making our environment habitable. A 50-foot by 50-foot lawn produces enough oxygen for a family of four to breathe for one year.


Pollutant blocker — Turfgrasses absorb such pollutants as carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide, which renders the air unfit to breathe. Turfgrass thatch also acts as a barrier that deters chemicals from entering the soil profile.


Quiet inducing — Grassy areas, whether as aspects of parks, golf courses, memorials, or homes, affect mood and create feelings of serenity, thoughtfulness, happiness, or sadness, depending on our personal associations.


Runoff control — A highly maintained lawn greatly reduces runoff of water and pollutants. Dense turfgrass cleans the water, which helps maintain a high-quality environment.


Safety net — Grassy playing surfaces are safer than dirt, Astroturf, or concrete because they provide sure footing and cushioning sod that adds to the quality of sports.


Traffic cop — Lawn barriers attractively and clearly direct both vehicular and pedestrian traffic in areas of heavy movement, whether on campuses, roads, or neighborhoods.


Urban relief — Urban area lawns offer a little taste of the countryside, providing a much-needed link with nature and reducing stress.


Vitalizer — Young and old alike enjoy games and come alive on grassy areas. No other surface material feels as soothing on bare feet or is as good for playing games and even turning somersaults.


Water filter — A dense turf enhances groundwater in two ways. First, turfgrasses increase water infiltration. They also clean the water as it passes through the grass so that underground water supplies are replenished for our use.


Xeriscaping environments — Creating beauty in low-water areas is gaiing popularity in appropriate regions. Ornamental grasses and small grassy areas are key parts of this practice.


Yearly sign — The cycle of the seasons produce changes in the color of lawns. Most turf becomes a duller green or even brown in the winter months, but is among the first areas to green up in the spring. This spring greening lifts the human spirit like little else, and is an event to look forward to.


Zoned improvement — Areas that are stabilized by turfgrasses enhance safety on roads and airfields by reducing flooding, mud, and visibility — impairing dust.



All information provided by:


PLANET- Professional Landcare Network

Green Lawns and Gardens Tips

Posted by B & B Maintenance on April 5, 2009 at 10:12 PM

Non-Toxic Weed Control

A garden of shrubs and perennials
No pesticides are used to maintain this
garden of shrubs and perennials.

Herbicides, whether applied by themselves or in the form of weed and feed products that combine fertilizer and herbicide in one application, can easily run off into streams and lakes and can migrate into groundwater supplies in areas of porous soils.


Preventing Weeds in your Lawn
Weeds move into lawns when conditions favor their growth over that of turf grasses. A healthy lawn will be able to endure drought, diseases and pest infestations better than a stressed lawn. Healthy grasses can also compete better with undesirable weeds.

Promote lawn health by mowing and watering properly:

  • Mow at a 2.5 -3" height. Taller grass develops deeper roots, an advantage during dry spells
  • Water deeply once a week. Lawns need about an inch of water a week. Supplement with irrigation only when necessary
  • Water early in the morning
  • Water at a rate that the soil can absorb

To control the spread of broad-leaf weeds, try using corn gluten, a non-toxic corn by-product. Apply at the suggested rate in the spring (when forsythia is blooming). Corn gluten will not kill existing weeds, but will prevent new ones from germinating each year that it is applied, and it adds some nitrogen to the soil as well.


Preventing Weeds in Garden Beds
For newly planted beds a two to three inch deep layer of mulch will help keep weeds down until the plants grow and shade the ground. Take care to keep mulch away from the trunks of trees and shrubs as this encourages certain pest problems.


A "living mulch" of ground covers and/or low perennials planted beneath trees and shrubs will add beauty and shade out annual weeds.


Help for Tough-to-Weed Areas
Weeds often take root in between pavers or stones used for walkways and patios, as well as in cracks in asphalt or concrete. Manage weeds in these areas with a highly acidic spray to kill the above-ground portion of the plant.


Weeds often take root in between pavers or stones used for walkways and patios, as well as in cracks in asphalt or concrete. Manage weeds in these areas with a highly acidic spray to kill the above-ground portion of the plant.


The commercially available sprays are typically made with vinegar or lemon juice either alone or in combination with herb or citrus oils such as thyme and orange. These sprays work well on annual weeds. Pouring boiling water over the weeds is also an option.


Killing perennial weeds with either method will take repeated applications to exhaust the nutrients stored in the root.

Reduce Pesticide Use with Smart Plant Choices

Head off pest and disease problems by choosing plants that have built-in disease and insect resistance.

  • Cool season grasses such as tall and fine fescues, kentucky bluegrass and perennial rye grass are appropriate for the Northeast. Choose fescues for shadier areas. Pick grass seed mixes with more bluegrass for areas that are sunny and will receive a lot of use.
  • Crabapples are a popular tree with multi-season interest. Choose varieties resistant to rust, scab and fireblight - three very common diseases.
  • Roses are susceptible to black spot, but there are some resistant varieties. Or try the hardy "landscape roses" which offer beautiful flowers, excellent cold-hardiness and are disease resistant too.
  • White-barked birches are extremely popular, but plagued by the bronze birch borer. Choose the 'Heritage' river birch over the European white birch.
  • Phlox, bee balm and certain asters are susceptible to powdery mildew. Newer cultivars and hybrids such as Phlox 'David,' or 'David's Lavender,' New York Aster, and the beebalms 'Raspberry Wine,'Coral Reef' and 'Marshall's Delight' are less prone to mildew.
  • Lilacs are also mildew targets. Try 'Miss Kim,' the Meyer Lilac, little-leaf lilac or the cultivar 'James McFarlane.'

Controlling Lawn and Ornamental Pests Naturally

There is an array of natural alternatives to pesticides for controlling insects in your lawn and on your ornamental plants. For example, parasitic nematodes can be applied to the lawn to control grubs before they turn into Japanese and other beetles that eat our plants. Suppressing grubs will also help with mole problems.

Lawns: The Best Way to Fertilize

First determine soil nutrient needs

Over-fertilization or applying fertilizer at the wrong time can harm your lawn. First determine IF there is a nutrient deficiency that needs to be corrected. A soil test can determine this and also give essential information about soil pH. Adding fertilizer will not solve a pH problem. Too much nitrogen decreases root growth, increases susceptibility to disease and decreases tolerance of environmental stresses.


Is the pH Correct?

Turf grasses grow best in soil that is neutral to slightly acidic (pH 6.5-7). Soils in the northeast often need lime to make the soil less acidic. It is best to apply a high-calcium or calcitic limestone rather than dolomitic limestone to avoid adding too much magnesium to the soil.


Adding Nitrogen

A residential front lawn
Leaving the lawn clippings on the lawn
supplies 50% of the lawn's nitrogen
requirements.

Most lawns that are kept green all summer will need extra nitrogen. Nearly 50% of this can be supplied by leaving clippings on the lawn. The best time to apply the other 50% is in the fall (mid to late October).


Lawns fertilized in the fall will stay greener longer, green-up earlier the following spring, and have higher energy reserves through the summer. This stored energy helps keep turf grasses healthy and more drought resistant. If you fertilize an existing lawn in mid-summer, you're feeding the weeds.


Broadcasting up to a half of an inch of finished compost on an established lawn provides nitrogen and other trace nutrients and builds organic matter in the soil. More serious nitrogen deficiencies should be corrected with a slow-release, organic source of nitrogen such as blood meal, cottonseed meal or fish meal. Apply in the quantities indicated by your soil test while soil temperatures are above 65 degrees.

How Much Lawn Do You Really Need?

A perennial shade garden
A perennial garden is a better choice than
lawn for this shady area beneath the trees.

Lawns are often the default landscape, used for "something green" and perceived as low-maintenance. In reality, lawns are one of the most high maintenance and high cost elements of the landscape. Think about how much lawn your lifestyle requires and if there are areas of your yard that could become wildflower meadow, shrub and perennial beds or a grove of trees with groundcovers beneath.


New York State Department of Environmental Conservation


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